Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Boda Boda

My posts are a day behind as the internet cafes are so slow that I type at home on the laptop and then just cut and paste when we come to town. 20 minutes just to load a page a do one post. So, I'm afraid there'll be no pics until we get home...

Good day today. I woke up at 7:30am after my first good nights sleep. I think I am finally adjusting to the time change (we are 11 hours ahead). Had a nice easy morning and then headed to the Daisy School to meet the Principal. This is the school that we are having the desks built for. There are about 250 students at the school – 100 board there and of them about 20 are handicapped. Handicapped includes physical, mental, and social disabilities. Total orphans (children who have lost both parents) are also considered handicapped.

Today was the first day of the teacher’s strike. “There is no learning in Kenya,” said Canon Ndungah, “and when there is no school, there is no work.” Teachers here are grossly underpaid. Starting salary for a teacher is 7,000 Ksh (about $125/month), average earn about 15,000 Ksh and top at about 30,000 Ksh ($535/month). This is before taxes which are 40%. Policemen earn about 90,000Ksh/month and have no post secondary education. There is outrage here that the government spent, I’ll say millions (but I’m really not sure) to sent 11 officials to the United States to meet Obama and teachers are paid a peasants wages.

Due to the strike, the Principal had lots of time to spend with us. He gave us a tour of the school – it is exactly like what is depicted in the UNICEF pictures. Rectangular buildings, cement floors, very dinghy, just a few desks strewn haphazardly around. We will post pictures.

Canon Ndungah was delightful. He spoke with great pride about Obama, “started as a bundle on his grandmother’s back and now is the President – anything is possible.” He spoke of the suffering of Kenyans and the corruption in the government. He asked for our impression of Kenyans, besides corruption. The corruption is from the top, he said, on the ground are good people. We told him about our run in with the lost boys and he picked up his cell phone as we were talking and called his friend who is with the police. “You must clean up the street, my brother.”

Emily, the lovely secretary with beautiful white teeth and a lavender dress, served us soda and fried bread balls. She held a wash basin for us and poured water on our hands while saying a blessing. We also met Alfred who is the Deputy (Vice Principal). We saw him later in the street and he met us with a handshake (everybody shakes hands as a greeting) and a big smile. He says that he is so grateful for anyone that helps the special students. They provide his livelihood so he loves them.

Next we had a great visit with Williamson Odoyo who is the furniture maker building the school desks. Everyone takes much time to talk. He invited us into his office at the back of his shop where we sat and talked about the desks, his business, the economy and family. He has been in business for 17 years and has a good reputation. Business slows down a lot in April because people have little money. There are no crops by the end of the dry season (February) and the new crops haven’t yet matured.

Next events of our day included: Police station – dilapidated furniture, standing there waiting, but not telling us what we are waiting for, officer says took advantage of us because we are new, Grocery store, Cyber cafĂ©, Market

Paul, our friend from the Market, called three Boda Bodas for us and told them not to take advantage, do not over charge. I couldn’t keep from smiling. Talk about out of the movies. Boda bodas are everywhere. Bikes with wide seats on the back. Basically you are getting a double. People found this very funny and were laughing and calling Mizungu (white guy). It was 20 bob (about 35 cents) each for the lift home. Helluva deal.

Soon cold showers and boda bodas will seem normal.

Terry and I went for a short jog when we got home. Alinda had told us that the Kenyans would not be used to seeing a woman running so it is a good idea for me to stay with Terry. It was a spectacular run, in the hills past goats and cows, men dressed in suits (everyone is very well dressed here) walking on a path up through fields to their home in the hills with no electricity. A group of children were laughing and calling after us “Mizungu”. I was having a hard time breathing and it was getting a little late. I was worried about mosquitoes (there are virtually no mosquitoes right now because it has been so dry) and about being out after dark, so I asked Terry to take me home. I’m sure I’ll relax more in a few more days.

My comfort zone is expanding every day.

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